Fabric Guide: Understanding the materials your clothes are made of

The fabric a garment is made from decides almost everything about how it feels, how it moves, how warm it keeps you, and how you should wash it. Once you can recognise the main materials — and understand what each one does well and less well — buying and caring for clothes becomes far easier. This guide walks through the fabrics you meet most often in a wardrobe: cotton, wool and merino, cashmere, bamboo, viscose and polyester. It explains where they come from, how they behave, and how they compare, so you can choose with confidence.

The three families of fabric

Almost every textile falls into one of three groups, and knowing which is which explains a lot about how a garment performs:

• Natural fibres grow from plants or animals — cotton and linen from plants, wool and cashmere from animals. They tend to breathe well and feel comfortable against the skin.
• Semi-synthetic fibres such as viscose (also sold as rayon) and most bamboo fabric start as natural raw material — usually wood pulp or bamboo pulp — that is chemically processed into a soft, fluid fibre.
• Synthetic fibres like polyester are made from petroleum-based plastics. They are strong, quick-drying and hold their shape, but breathe less than natural fibres.

Many modern garments blend fibres from more than one family to combine their strengths — for example a little elastane in cotton for stretch, or polyester mixed with cotton for durability and easy care.

Cotton

Cotton is the most widely used natural fibre in clothing, and for good reason: it is soft, breathable, affordable and easy to care for.

Where cotton comes from and how it is produced

Cotton grows as a soft, fluffy fibre around the seeds of the cotton plant (Gossypium), which is cultivated in warm climates across countries such as India, China, the United States, Pakistan and Brazil. After the bolls open, the fibre is harvested and ginned to separate it from the seeds, then cleaned, combed and spun into yarn. That yarn is woven or knitted into fabric and finished before it becomes clothing. Because the raw fibre comes straight from a plant, cotton is fully natural and biodegradable.

Is cotton breathable?

Yes. Cotton is one of the most breathable common fabrics. The fibres let air move through the weave and absorb moisture from the skin, which is why cotton feels cool and comfortable in warm weather and works so well for everyday t-shirts, shirts and underwear. The trade-off is that cotton holds onto that moisture rather than wicking it away quickly, so it dries more slowly than synthetics.

Does cotton stretch?

Pure cotton has very little natural stretch — it gives slightly but largely holds its shape, and can shrink the first time it is washed warm. When you find a cotton garment that stretches and springs back, it almost always contains a small percentage of elastane (spandex). Knitted cotton, like jersey used for t-shirts, also feels stretchier than woven cotton simply because of the way the loops are constructed, not because the fibre itself is elastic.

Is cotton the same across all garments?

Not quite. "Cotton" covers a range of qualities and constructions. Longer-staple cottons (often labelled as combed or premium cotton) feel smoother and pill less than short-staple cotton. Organic cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides. And the same fibre feels completely different depending on whether it is woven into a crisp shirting or knitted into a soft jersey. So two garments both labelled "100% cotton" can still feel and wear quite differently.

Wool and merino

Wool comes from the fleece of sheep and is prized for warmth. It insulates even when slightly damp, resists odour naturally, and is naturally a little water-repellent.

Does merino wool itch?

Generally, no. The scratchiness people associate with traditional wool comes from thick, coarse fibres pressing against the skin. Merino wool is made of much finer fibres, which bend easily on contact and feel soft rather than prickly for most people. That is why merino is a popular choice for base layers and jumpers worn close to the skin. People with a genuine wool sensitivity may still notice it, and a thin layer underneath solves the problem comfortably.

Wool vs cotton — what is the difference?

Both are natural fibres, but they suit different needs:

• Warmth: Wool insulates far better and keeps you warm even when damp; cotton offers little insulation and feels cold when wet.
• Breathability in heat: Cotton is cooler and more comfortable in hot weather.
• Moisture: Wool can absorb a good deal of moisture while still feeling dry and managing odour; cotton absorbs moisture but then feels damp.
• Care: Cotton is easy to machine wash; wool usually needs a gentle wool cycle or hand washing and should be dried flat to keep its shape.

In short, reach for wool when you want warmth and cotton when you want coolness and easy care.

Cashmere

Where cashmere comes from

Cashmere is a luxury type of wool, but it does not come from sheep. It is the soft undercoat of the cashmere goat, combed out by hand each spring as the animals moult. These goats are raised mainly in Mongolia, China and parts of Central Asia, where harsh winters cause them to grow an especially fine, insulating under-layer. Because each goat yields only a small amount of usable down each year, cashmere is rarer and more expensive than ordinary wool.

The benefits of cashmere

• Exceptional softness: The fibres are extremely fine, giving cashmere its signature smooth, next-to-skin feel with no itch.
• Lightweight warmth: Cashmere insulates far better than sheep's wool for its weight, so a thin jumper keeps you warm without bulk.
• Breathable comfort: It regulates temperature well, staying comfortable across a range of conditions.
• Longevity: Cared for properly — washed gently and stored folded — a good cashmere piece lasts for many years.

Bamboo and viscose

Bamboo fabric and viscose are closely related, because most bamboo clothing is in fact a type of viscose made from bamboo pulp. Both are semi-synthetic: a natural raw material turned into fibre through a chemical process.

Viscose vs cotton

Viscose (rayon) is made from processed wood pulp. It drapes beautifully, feels smooth and silky, and is very breathable — which makes it popular for flowing dresses and blouses. Compared with cotton, viscose usually feels softer and hangs more fluidly, but it is weaker when wet, wrinkles easily and often needs gentle or dry cleaning. Cotton is more robust and easier to wash, while viscose wins on drape and a luxurious hand-feel.

Bamboo vs cotton

Bamboo viscose is exceptionally soft — often compared to cashmere or silk — with a smooth, cool feel and good drape. It is naturally breathable and moisture-absorbent, similar to cotton, but tends to feel silkier and glossier. Cotton is generally more durable and hard-wearing, while bamboo offers extra softness and a lighter drape. Note that turning bamboo into fabric is chemically intensive, so its "natural" reputation depends heavily on how responsibly it is produced.

Polyester and how it compares to cotton

Cotton vs polyester

Polyester is a synthetic fibre made from plastic. It is strong, resists wrinkles, holds colour well, dries quickly and keeps its shape — which is why it is common in activewear and easy-care garments. Its weaknesses are breathability and feel: it does not let the skin breathe as well as cotton and can trap heat and odour. Cotton, by contrast, is softer against the skin and far more breathable, but wrinkles more, dries slowly and can shrink.

Neither is simply "better" — it depends on the job. Choose cotton for comfort and breathability in everyday and warm-weather wear; choose polyester (or a cotton-polyester blend) when you want durability, shape retention and low-maintenance care.

How to use this when you shop

A quick way to read a garment before you buy is to check the composition label and match it to what you need: cotton and linen for breathable everyday pieces, wool and cashmere for warmth, viscose and bamboo for soft drape, and polyester or blends for durability and easy care. The care label follows directly from the fibre, so knowing the material also tells you how much upkeep a piece will need.

You can see these fabrics at work across our collections — soft knits and jumpers in knitwear, layering pieces in cardigans, breathable everyday staples in best basics, and the latest styles in new arrivals.

FAQ

Where does cotton come from and how is it made?

Cotton grows as a soft fibre around the seeds of the cotton plant, cultivated in warm climates such as India, China and the United States. After harvesting, the fibre is separated from the seeds (ginning), then cleaned, spun into yarn and woven or knitted into fabric. It is a fully natural, biodegradable fibre.

Is cotton breathable?

Yes. Cotton is one of the most breathable everyday fabrics. It lets air pass through and absorbs moisture from the skin, which keeps it cool and comfortable — though it dries more slowly than synthetic fibres.

Does cotton stretch?

Pure cotton has very little natural stretch. Cotton garments that stretch and spring back usually contain a small amount of elastane, and knitted cotton (like t-shirt jersey) feels stretchier than woven cotton because of its construction.

Does merino wool itch?

For most people, no. Merino is made of very fine fibres that bend on contact with the skin and feel soft rather than scratchy, which is why it works well for jumpers and base layers. People with a true wool sensitivity may still prefer a thin layer underneath.

Where does cashmere come from?

Cashmere is the soft undercoat of the cashmere goat, combed out each spring during moulting. The goats are raised mainly in Mongolia, China and Central Asia. Because each animal produces only a small amount per year, cashmere is rarer and more expensive than sheep's wool.

What are the benefits of cashmere?

Cashmere is exceptionally soft with no itch, extremely warm for its light weight, breathable and temperature-regulating, and — with gentle care — very long-lasting.

What is the difference between wool and cotton?

Wool insulates much better and stays warm even when damp, while cotton is cooler and more breathable in heat. Cotton is easy to machine wash; wool usually needs a gentle wool cycle or hand washing and flat drying.

Cotton vs polyester — which is better?

It depends on the use. Cotton is softer and more breathable, ideal for comfort and warm weather. Polyester is stronger, wrinkle-resistant, quick-drying and holds its shape, making it better for durability and easy care. Blends aim to combine both.

Bamboo vs cotton?

Bamboo fabric (usually a bamboo viscose) is silkier, softer and has more drape, with good breathability. Cotton is generally more durable and hard-wearing. Bamboo processing is chemically intensive, so its eco-credentials depend on responsible production.

Viscose vs cotton?

Viscose is made from processed wood pulp; it is soft, silky and drapes well, but is weaker when wet and creases easily. Cotton is more robust and easier to wash. Viscose wins on drape and feel; cotton wins on durability and easy care.